This is an excellent printer, especially for the price! The value here is fantastic. If you're thinking about buying this and maybe trying to decide between this one and a different printer, you can't go wrong with this one. Pick it up ASAP.
It took me probably an hour to set up and calibrate (45 minutes of that was calibration). Actually putting it together is super easy, and I opted for a couple of "enhancements" before starting the calibration. First was adding a glass bed. I just got a 8" x 8" picture frame for $5 and used the glass from that. It fits perfectly and is working great. I used some double-sided tape to adhere the glass to the heated print bed. The heat transfers right to the glass no problem. The printer does come with two 8" x 8" sheets of masking tape to use on the print bed; the sample printed part was on a piece of the same stuff and it looked great so the included masking sheets should work fine until you get a better solution in place (I also want to try BuildTak).
Second was adding M3 nuts to the print bed adjustment screws to lock the print bed and keep it from going out of level. I need to print the adjustment wheels to replace the thumbscrews because they're a pain to use. I didn't think they would be but they are.
Oh I also had to change the arm on the Z limit switch because the stock one was loose and the Z-axis wouldn't home properly because the limit switch wasn't being triggered. I just used an arm off a limit switch I had laying around.
After getting the level and gap adjusted I started printing, and the prints are beautiful (I'm using Hatchbox PLA). I've only been using the printer a couple of days, but haven't had any problems with it at all (other than the limit switch thing I guess). If you've been doing research on this machine (like I did) then you know it's a clone of the Wanhao Duplicator i3. One of the questions I had was whether this Monoprice version had the updates of the Duplicator i3 V2, and other than the tilted screen, it does. Z-motor dampeners, case cooling fan, 12V extruder cooling fan, fixed thermistor crimp, etc.
The printer also came with a USB cable, SD card, part-removal tool (AKA paint scraper), various Allen wrenches, and a spool holder that can be mounted on top of the gantry or on the control box. A lot of people complain about the SD card but it has been working fine for me, print after print, no problems. I haven't hooked the printer directly to my computer with the USB cable yet. I'm hoping to set up Octoprint with a Raspberry Pi before too long.
Anyway, as I said this printer is really really good so if you're thinking about getting one, just do it and you'll be glad you did.
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From the manufacturer
- Includes 2GB microSD card preloaded with printable 3D models out of the box
- Includes sample PLA filament
- Heated build plate allows for high-reliability printing
- Can use compatible software, such as Cura, Repetier, or Simplify 3D
Print with any type of 3D filament
With the ability to print any type of 3D filament and a price point lower than most DIY kits, this entry-level 3D printer is the easiest and least expensive way to join the 3D printing revolution!
Maker Select 3D Printer v2
At less than the price of a new gaming console, give the gift of creativity!
Choose to give the innovative and creative gift of learning. If you're ready to take your ideas and designs from paper or CAD file to the next level, the Monoprice Maker Select 3D Printer is the perfect starter solution for your needs!
Tighten just 6 screws and be printing in 10 minutes
Unlike kit-based printers, which require experience, and time to assemble, the Maker Select 3D Printer is easy to assemble and includes everything you need to begin printing right out of the box.
Print Now:
Unlike DIY kits, this printer comes almost fully assembled and comes with everything you need, including sample PLA filament and a microSD card with sample 3D model files, ready to print!
Compatible Software:
With the ability to use both open-source and commercial software, such as Cura, Repetier, or Simplify 3D, the Maker Select 3D Printer is compatible with Windows, Mac OS X, and Linux.
Large Volume:
The large 8 x 8 inch build plate and generous 7 inch vertical spacing means that you can print larger, more complex models.
Features
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3D FilamentPrint with any type of 3D filament including ABS-based, PLA-based, XT copolyester, PET, TPU, TPC, FPE, PVA, HIPS, Jelly, Foam, and Felty. |
Heated Build PlateThe heated build plate allows you to print slower cooling materials, such as ABS and modified ABS, as well as PLA and PLA blends. |
MicroSD Card SlotUse a microSD card to store sliced GCode files, then plug the card into the microSD card slot to print without the need to connect to a Windows or Mac PC. The printer includes a 2GB microSD card with sample 3D models, which you can slice and store on the card for direct printing. |
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| MP Select Mini | MP Select Mini PRO | Maker Select V2 | Maker Plus 10 Mini | Maker Plus 10 | Ultimate | |
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3,133
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3,133
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801
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119
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139
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136
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| Build Area | 120x120x120mm | 120x120x120mm | 200x200x180mm | 200x200x180mm | 300x300x400mm | 200x200x175mm |
| Resolution | 100-300 micron | 100-300 micron | 100-400micron | 50-300 microns | 50-300 microns | 20-200micron |
| Printing Speed | up to 55 mm/s | up to 100 mm/s | up to 70 mm/s | up to 100 mm/s | up to 100 mm/s | up to 150 mm/s |
| Max Extruder Temp | 250℃ | 280℃ | 240℃ | 280℃ | 280℃ | 260℃ |
| Heated Build Plate | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |
| Removable Plate | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | |||
| Filament Sensor | ✓ | ✓ | ||||
| Calibration | Manual leveling | Assisted leveling | Manual leveling | Assisted leveling | Assisted leveling | Manual leveling |
| Connectivity | Color LCD Screen, Micro USB, Micro SD card, WiFi | Color TouchScreen, Micro USB, Micro SD card, WiFi | Mini USB, Micro SD Card | Touchscreen, Micro USB, Micro SD card, WiFi | Touchscreen, Micro USB, Micro SD card, WiFi | LCD Screen, USB, SD Card |
| Supported Slicing Software | Cura, Repetier-Host | Cura, Repetier-Host | Cura | Cura, Repetier-Host, KISSlicer | Cura, Repetier-Host, KISSlicer | Cura |
Videos
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Customer Review: Amazing printer for a tinkerer
Ben Bridges
Videos for this product
2:55
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Monoprice 13860 Maker Select 3d Printer V2
Merchant Video
Reviews with images
Worked great for 6 weeks. Hoping Monoprice will replace bad power supply under the 1 year warrenty. You should buy this printer.
I was planning on giving a 4 or 5 star review but was unlucky and had an issue 6 weeks into using the printer and will probably bump up the rating once my issue is resolved. The printer was printing really well with PLA. I then set the bed temperature from the default 60C to 75C and it stopped working. The printer will now start prints but reboots mid print. I think there may be an issue with the power supply because it also tripped the breaker in the house.I have contacted Monoprice to see if they will honor the 1 year warranty. If you get this printer the first thing you should do is manually set the hot end and printer bed up to the max settings to verify you do not have a faulty power supply. I wish I would have done this because you can send back the printer to Amazon if the power supply or any other part is faulty as long as you are in the 30 day window, but after that you will need to working with Monoprice directly.Nov 1, 2016 Update: Monoprice sent me an email regarding the issue and asked me for the Amazon invoice so I am hoping they can resolve the issue. Nov 4th: Monoprice issued a RMA number so that I can return my unit. Nov 7th: Printer is on the way back to Monoprice. Nov 14th: Printer delivered to Monoprice. Nov 16th:Replacement printer has been shipped, things are proceeding well. Nov 20th: Got new replacement printer and it is working great. Once I run this printer some more I will probably give it another star.I had a filament jam due to my own fault but was able to clear it by removing 2 screws. The filament had wrapped around the extruder gear but it was easy to take out. The one thing that is a huge factor with this printer is that there are a ton of videos for this model so when something goes wrong it is easy to search the internet for solutions. There are extra items included -- keep these in a safe place because they will make life easier if you have a filament jam. In particular, the drill bit and long wire (piano wire). I liked that these were included because sooner or later you are bound to have a filament jam if you try printing with different materials since they all have different heating properties.In doing research, I found out that heated air chambers are patented by one company so that is why many vendors may have an enclosure, but it is not heated. I found a large clear tupperware storage container that I now pace over the printer with a space heater that has a thermostat set so the air temperature is at 90F. Don't let the air temp. go higher than 100F because it will make the filament to soft and cause it to wrap around the extruder gear. If you are printing filament other than PLA then you may be able to go up to 114F.In order to get everything under the tupperware container, I had to print a filament spool holder. The spool holder that I have found to work best uses a 608 bearings, also know as a skate board bearing. One the photos has the spool holder with the 608 bearings. I tried a spool holder that had a short base and sometimes the spool for get pulled off the holder. Take care to keep the filament tight because if it becomes too loose on the spool it will tangle will can cause your print to fail after your print job has been running for a few hours. Also, keep your filament spools in a zip lock bag so that they don't go bad, the filament will absorb moisture which will cause defects in the printed object. If this happens you will need to dry your the spool by placing it in the oven for 140 minutes. Looks up the exact temp. for the type of filament you are using. You need to pre-heat the oven and let it sit at that temperature for 10 minutes because most ovens will overshoot the target temp and gradually drop down but this may melt the actual spool that holds the filament.Placing everything under the large tupperware container has made a huge difference on not having to have the bed leveled to a high degree because the filament (I use Hatchbox PLA) sticks super well. In fact it sticks so well that I use blue tape to make getting the print of the bed. I have the control unit placed outside of the tupperware so it does not overheat. Some say that the Maker select Plus is nicer because the controller and power supply is mounted on the frame, but if you want to use a heated chamber this is a disadvantage because the controller board and power supply will over heat-- so get this model. The Maker Select Plus does not use the standard Melzi board most likely due to the touch screen code. That means the code has not had as much testing coverage vs. using the stock open source code. My coworker got the maker select mini which uses a modified code base running on a different chip architecture and when trying to print a more complex 3D model the print stopped at 80% mark when printing from the SD card, but he was able to make the print work when printing from the USB cable. We think that this is related to the controller board not using stock open source firmware. We investigated if we could update the firmware but could not find adequate documentation to proceed.You can also print a base frame so you can carry the controller and x-y-z frame as one piece. My unit has adjustable the Z endstop which you need if you decide to print on glass. I control this printer with OctoPrint (OctoPI) and AstroPrint. OctoPI lets me see the gcode that is get executed on the printer. If need to monitor the print while away from home, I run AstroPrint because I don't have to open up any firewalls. OctoPrint and AstroPrint are free and work well with this printer.Also, it seems like I have the latest version with the large metal thumbscrews about the size a a nickel used to adjust the bed which I have only done once so far. My version also came with the fiber washers between the build plate and springs pushing against the thumbscrews. I also noticed that my version has z-motor dampeners which helps with print quality.Another feature that has become a big deal for me is how big the build volume is. If you place the part diagonally you can have parts that are 11 inches long. Once you start print things for your household (brackets, mounts, frames, power tool holders, organizers) you will be glad. My office worker got the mini select and i had to print a bracket so he could mount his router to the wall. The only thing he can print are small toy like objects or smaller screw clips.Speaking of printing large objects on this printer, the build surface is the 3M PEI also known as Buildtak. It really works well but the bigger objects are hard to remove from the build plate. Heating the bed is no help - I have read other people hitting the object with a hammer but that will throw off the level of the bed. I have found a much better solution with is to build the object using the raft option that is available in the slicer software included on the SD card. As last resort I have used a heat gun to soften the PLA on a corner of the print object to get the paint scraper under the print. Do not use the include paint scraper that comes with the printer because it has a 90 degree edge that will scrape the surface, find a print removal tool that has rounded edges. I got a set of 5 tools all with rounded edges for around $9 online but you get pick these up at any hobby store under the paint supply area - ask for a painters steel palette knife.The other day I turned on the printer and the fan motor on the controller box started to make a loud noise but would go away after about 3 minutes. I searched the web for solutions and it involves putting a drop of oil the fan bearings which is located in the middle of the fan covered by a sticker by the manufacturer. When doing this it is important not to use WD-40 because that is a degreaser, instead use light sewing machine oil or PFTE oil. To get to the fan you have to remove 4 screws on the back on the control unit and 2 screws keeping the DC fan in place. It was simple and only took 5 minutes. I also noticed that the fan on the controller box appears to be the same one used on the filament fan and hot end fan. This is good because you basically have a spare dc fan. I will eventually replace the fan on the controller fan with a larger one that does not produce as much noise. The fan adapter plates can be found online for free. Also, if you move the fan to the outside of the controller box it does not make as much noise, make sure the not to reverse the air flow, it should blow air out of the controller box.Make sure you watch and re-watch videos on how to adjust the bed because you can damage and possible bend the build plate if the nozzle press down on the plate to hard. Use the paper / dollar bill method to verify the bed is at the right height, other methods may cause problems.Once your build plate is bent, your larger prints will no longer stick and which is very frustrating. If the build plate gets bent you have a few options. 1) Replace the build plate. 2) try printing with a heated build chamber 3) print on glass 4) use a KISSlicer which has a feature to compensate for print beds that have a crown( are no longer flat - typically the middle is lower and corners are higher) 5) where the bed is lower that the rest of the plate, put a few strips of blue tape in the valleys which kinda like filling in potholes..I have include a photo done with wood PLA. I also printed a watch charger and stand.If you are not going to spend over $500 for a more advance printer then get this exact model -- it simply does not get any better at this price point. I am going put the printer through it paces for the next few months and if all goes well another star will be added to this review. Hope this helps others, happy printing.
Top reviews from the United States
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Reviewed in the United States on January 25, 2016
Reviewed in the United States on May 7, 2020
Do I recommend it? In short, yes.
TLDR: If you do not feel like reading below, words of advice before printing anything: Check EVERY screw, including Set Screw on Filament Gear inside Hot End Assembly, Check X Level, Check for Y Carriage Warp, Upgrade Y Carriage.
Setup is pretty easy, apart from a few issues first being the bed leveling and this is where I recommend if you purchase this machine to go ahead and also order a good sturdy Y Carriage Plate Upgrade such as the one from Gulfcoast Robotics. (Read on for Info) I will definitely be adding auto bed leveling to this printer as getting your fingers on them screws without mods at all (specifically the rear adjustments) is a big pain.
I started off with just assembling and doing a few prints after trying to manually level the heat bed the best I can (really wish this came with auto-bed leveling - that is my next project for this machine)
Issues:
Y Carriage: In my case my Y Carriage Plate came pre-warped which contributed to (but wasn't the major factor in manual bed leveling issues) After a few initial test prints I decided to go ahead and take off the build plate to see what was up and after placing it on a flat glass surface I found that 2 diagonal opposing corners are slightly bowed approx. 0.5mm. Since the heat bed being much more sturdy isn't going to really bow/bend much if any at all this causes those corners to project from the Y carriage to those corners of the heat bed and when you adjust one opposite corner the other 3 sides are affected which when things are off or even warped causes a headache trying to get the opposing sides level.
Z Screws: While working on my build plate I noticed some corkscrew shaped metal shavings approx. 1"-2" long just off the side where the Z Screws are, apparently, I lost a slight amount metal from threads off the Z Screws on both sides. Turned out after measuring from the heat bed up to the X Rods that the Axis was off by around 1.2" from one side to the other (accurate within 0.5mm given the bow on the Carriage) This was causing the screw to bind as the Z Axis moved up and down along the plane since X is leveled on left and right via the Z Axis Screws and X plane needs to move evenly on both sides at the same level and speed. This was an easy fix, simply placing a flat object (such as a small plastic storage container) on the bed under the X Rod, starting on one side, adjusting then moving to the other side and adjusting that side (repeat until pretty level). You can, with the power off or with stepper motors disabled, free hand turn the screws on the Z Axis to level these out. Z Axis does not slide freely without manually turning the screws, that being said, while I do not expect leveling to be spot on out of the box, I would not expect that much off that it can actually shred metal off the screws due to binding. At most 1-5mm off would be within reason from the factory with 5mm being quite a bit for "preset factory tested". Mine was obviously not used as it still had a butterfly test print stuck to the heat bed when I received it which also indicated that it had to be tested? But, obvious that some inhouse auto level method was used to run the print and not manually calibrated.
Filament Gear: (Small Gear used to feed/pull Filament down into the hot end). Mine was loose, I kept hearing a semi muted thumping noise as it would pull filament, I noticed that the Hot End appeared to vibrate/bounce a little as it made the noise so I decided to investigate it. Found that this gear was semi loose and pushed its way back away from where the filament is causing the filament to ride the edge of the gear instead of a aligned at or near center to give and even run as the gear is pressing against it which applies pressure to it onto a roller on the apposing side allowing the gear to grip and pull the line. Easy fix, re-adjust gear to a better position, apply some blue thread lock to the set screw on the gear and tightened back down. Has not moved at all since then.
Build Sheet: (Sheet of material that sticks to or is placed on Heat Bed that gives print a place to stick during print) I had to remove the Build Sheet that came on the machine and this should have been my first indication that something was wrong, but.. Mine had come with a pretty deep scratch in it from left to right where the Hot End was sitting when I unboxed it. I did not take a picture of it as again, I was not too worried about that given the machine came with a spare (and I had planned on getting both PEI and Borosilicate Glass which would help in the event the sheet was unusable). At any rate, after my findings above, I went ahead and went through the painful process of removing the old sheet and sticking the new spare to the bed.
Feet: The machine came with around 6 little feet which appear to be some sort of rubber, TPU semi-rubber-plastic feet (not sure on material) However, this has to be one of the worst designs I have ever seen. They are meant to slip onto the frame providing what I assume would be quieter operation and make it harder for machine to slide on a slick surface such as glass table. These are not rigid enough and bend so much that they fall right off if you even move the machine 1/2" and most of them will fall off as soon as you pick the machine up. I had forgot about them and after my initial testing of the machine, I moved it from my desk in another room into a dedicated location in my work shop where I had to backtrack to find the feet that had left an old fashioned bread crumb trail back to its first home.
After the above, I decided to go through the machine and check every screw and I am glad I did. Almost every screw on my machine was loose with exception to the screws I put in to attach the Z Frame to the rest of the machine when I unboxed it. (I did not check inside the power supply/control unit yet.
Quality control could be improved by Monoprice, but, despite the above the machine is not bad and I do recommend it. Once you get it sorted and level, it can push out some good quality prints. At the price point and what it is capable of with a little TLC out of the box is not bad at all.
How/Why I rated it the way I did:
Print Quality: Rated 4 of 5: Pretty good once setup right. The pictures I provided are examples stock. I have since improved it more but with a few mods including an all metal hotend and Y Carriage. Though, marginal, it did improve. (Image used with arrows indicating varying degree of adjustment to the corners when leveling is not the image of my machine but one I found online that I just needed a higher res image to edit in photoshop to add indication arrows)
Tech Support: I rated it a 5, but I did not contact them so I cannot downrate for having no communication or experience with them.
For Beginner: 3 of 5, sure there is less to put together as its pre-assembled, however, with the other underlying issues such as loose screws including the Filament Gear I would not say this is beginner friendly. However, if you happen to get one that does not have that issue I would rate it around 4.
TLDR: If you do not feel like reading below, words of advice before printing anything: Check EVERY screw, including Set Screw on Filament Gear inside Hot End Assembly, Check X Level, Check for Y Carriage Warp, Upgrade Y Carriage.
Setup is pretty easy, apart from a few issues first being the bed leveling and this is where I recommend if you purchase this machine to go ahead and also order a good sturdy Y Carriage Plate Upgrade such as the one from Gulfcoast Robotics. (Read on for Info) I will definitely be adding auto bed leveling to this printer as getting your fingers on them screws without mods at all (specifically the rear adjustments) is a big pain.
I started off with just assembling and doing a few prints after trying to manually level the heat bed the best I can (really wish this came with auto-bed leveling - that is my next project for this machine)
Issues:
Y Carriage: In my case my Y Carriage Plate came pre-warped which contributed to (but wasn't the major factor in manual bed leveling issues) After a few initial test prints I decided to go ahead and take off the build plate to see what was up and after placing it on a flat glass surface I found that 2 diagonal opposing corners are slightly bowed approx. 0.5mm. Since the heat bed being much more sturdy isn't going to really bow/bend much if any at all this causes those corners to project from the Y carriage to those corners of the heat bed and when you adjust one opposite corner the other 3 sides are affected which when things are off or even warped causes a headache trying to get the opposing sides level.
Z Screws: While working on my build plate I noticed some corkscrew shaped metal shavings approx. 1"-2" long just off the side where the Z Screws are, apparently, I lost a slight amount metal from threads off the Z Screws on both sides. Turned out after measuring from the heat bed up to the X Rods that the Axis was off by around 1.2" from one side to the other (accurate within 0.5mm given the bow on the Carriage) This was causing the screw to bind as the Z Axis moved up and down along the plane since X is leveled on left and right via the Z Axis Screws and X plane needs to move evenly on both sides at the same level and speed. This was an easy fix, simply placing a flat object (such as a small plastic storage container) on the bed under the X Rod, starting on one side, adjusting then moving to the other side and adjusting that side (repeat until pretty level). You can, with the power off or with stepper motors disabled, free hand turn the screws on the Z Axis to level these out. Z Axis does not slide freely without manually turning the screws, that being said, while I do not expect leveling to be spot on out of the box, I would not expect that much off that it can actually shred metal off the screws due to binding. At most 1-5mm off would be within reason from the factory with 5mm being quite a bit for "preset factory tested". Mine was obviously not used as it still had a butterfly test print stuck to the heat bed when I received it which also indicated that it had to be tested? But, obvious that some inhouse auto level method was used to run the print and not manually calibrated.
Filament Gear: (Small Gear used to feed/pull Filament down into the hot end). Mine was loose, I kept hearing a semi muted thumping noise as it would pull filament, I noticed that the Hot End appeared to vibrate/bounce a little as it made the noise so I decided to investigate it. Found that this gear was semi loose and pushed its way back away from where the filament is causing the filament to ride the edge of the gear instead of a aligned at or near center to give and even run as the gear is pressing against it which applies pressure to it onto a roller on the apposing side allowing the gear to grip and pull the line. Easy fix, re-adjust gear to a better position, apply some blue thread lock to the set screw on the gear and tightened back down. Has not moved at all since then.
Build Sheet: (Sheet of material that sticks to or is placed on Heat Bed that gives print a place to stick during print) I had to remove the Build Sheet that came on the machine and this should have been my first indication that something was wrong, but.. Mine had come with a pretty deep scratch in it from left to right where the Hot End was sitting when I unboxed it. I did not take a picture of it as again, I was not too worried about that given the machine came with a spare (and I had planned on getting both PEI and Borosilicate Glass which would help in the event the sheet was unusable). At any rate, after my findings above, I went ahead and went through the painful process of removing the old sheet and sticking the new spare to the bed.
Feet: The machine came with around 6 little feet which appear to be some sort of rubber, TPU semi-rubber-plastic feet (not sure on material) However, this has to be one of the worst designs I have ever seen. They are meant to slip onto the frame providing what I assume would be quieter operation and make it harder for machine to slide on a slick surface such as glass table. These are not rigid enough and bend so much that they fall right off if you even move the machine 1/2" and most of them will fall off as soon as you pick the machine up. I had forgot about them and after my initial testing of the machine, I moved it from my desk in another room into a dedicated location in my work shop where I had to backtrack to find the feet that had left an old fashioned bread crumb trail back to its first home.
After the above, I decided to go through the machine and check every screw and I am glad I did. Almost every screw on my machine was loose with exception to the screws I put in to attach the Z Frame to the rest of the machine when I unboxed it. (I did not check inside the power supply/control unit yet.
Quality control could be improved by Monoprice, but, despite the above the machine is not bad and I do recommend it. Once you get it sorted and level, it can push out some good quality prints. At the price point and what it is capable of with a little TLC out of the box is not bad at all.
How/Why I rated it the way I did:
Print Quality: Rated 4 of 5: Pretty good once setup right. The pictures I provided are examples stock. I have since improved it more but with a few mods including an all metal hotend and Y Carriage. Though, marginal, it did improve. (Image used with arrows indicating varying degree of adjustment to the corners when leveling is not the image of my machine but one I found online that I just needed a higher res image to edit in photoshop to add indication arrows)
Tech Support: I rated it a 5, but I did not contact them so I cannot downrate for having no communication or experience with them.
For Beginner: 3 of 5, sure there is less to put together as its pre-assembled, however, with the other underlying issues such as loose screws including the Filament Gear I would not say this is beginner friendly. However, if you happen to get one that does not have that issue I would rate it around 4.
Images in this review
Top reviews from other countries
spencer lennie
Great starter printer with some issues
Reviewed in Canada on December 1, 2019